Juni-Hitoe

Author: * Akiko Feng - 2 on this thread out of 29 sitewide.
Date: Apr 17, 2005 - 11:03

Juni-Hitoe:The 12 Layer Kimono Dress.

Juni-Hitoe is a clothing worn in the hiean period of japan and early edor period.Juni-hitoe consists of 12 layers and worn by noble women in japan at hiean,its very heavy and takes a long time to wear.

To protect against high humidity, buildings had elevated floors made of tatami mats. The convention of sitting on the floor became an important part of the life style. Clothing became stiffer and more voluminous. Court women wore 10, 12, 15 or even 20 layers at a time. This layered dressing is called "juni-hito" which literally means "12 layers." The layered color pattern reflected many things including seasons, directions, virtues, and elements of the earth as they related to spirits of nature. The multiple layers also helped in staying warm in winter.

Juni-hitoe is mostly worn in winter time.To keep noble women not to wear junihitoe everyday in summer (since its quiete heavy you might get very hot and faint) they made a story,heres teh story.

One day a prince in a small castle was fishing in a nearby river,then he was trying to egt a fish and the fish was too strong for him to cacth it dragged him into the river,the current of the river was soo strong.A coutlady saw the poor prince,the court lady was wearing a junihitoe,she went into the water trying to save the prince.Instead the courtlady's junihitoe was heavy it pulled her down the water and drowned,the poor prince also drowned.

Junihitoe Exlenation

1 hirabitai

2 saishi

3 kushi

4 tsukuri-mayu

5 kake-obi

6 karaginu

7 uwagi

8 itsutsuginu

9 uchiginu

10 hitoe

11 aka-no-hakama

12 mo 13 mo-no-ohgoshi

14 mo-no-hikigoshi

15 kohketsu-no-mo

16 karaginu-no-kamioki

17 emottoi

18 kurenai

19 kobinsaki

20 naga-kamoji

Detailed Explanation

The figure in the photo wears the fine dress of a court lady after the middle of Heian era (794-1185).

This dress is commonly called "juni-hitoe (=twelve-layered garment)."

After Onin-no-ran (=Onin War), since the custom of the dress became unknown, special style was produced.

The figure in the photo shows the dress from Momoyama era through the14th year of Tenpo (1843), which is the time of revival of the "mo" garment of Heian era.

In addition, under this "mo" garment, four pieces of "mo" garments, which are called the "koketsu-no-mo (=a tie-dyed mo)", are worn.

The "koketsu-no-mo" was abolished by the revival court lady's dress in the seveth year of Kyoho (1722).

The term, "koketsu-no-mo" is very old as a matter of naming.

According to the historical fact made clear, the article left by the Empress Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo, which has been saved at Reigan-ji temple in Kyoto, is the oldest.

The pattern on the"mo" is not based on original "koketsu."

It is turned the white of it up by the "roketsu-zome" (=wax-dyeing) method, and "koma-shishu" (= embroidery) is carried out.

Moreover, a dress which inherits the tradition of the four-piece-form is in the sacredness treasures dedicated to the Ise-jingu shrine.

Under the "karaginu" (=Chinese clothes) garment is a "omotegi" (=outer clothes)."

Unlike the court lady's of the Heian era, the "uchiginu" (=hitting clothes) clothes was worn under a "uchiki" clothes.

The"uchiki" clothes was called" itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)", and it is worn in the five-piece-pile form, and cotton is put in the "okumi" portion

"Hitoe" was worn under the "uchiginu" clothes.

The figure in the photo wears a red "uchi-bakama" trousers and a red "hakama" trousers of which material is woven by the "seigo" method in piles.

She has a "hi-ogi" fan with some hand-drawn beautiful patterns.

Her hair style is a "sage-gami (=lowering hair)" attached with a "tama-kamoji (=round added hair)" to make the "hirabitai (=flat forehead)" style with "saish" and "kushi (=comb)" as ornaments.

These three ornamental additives are called "oshiyashi" ornament.

This hair style is in the style of the time from the Momoyama era through the first half of the Edo era.

In the second half of the Edo era, the style was replaced by the "osubekarashi" which is quite visible as a stretching-out hair.

The full dress in the photo was restored, being based on the article left by Emperor Kazuko, the wife of Emperor Gomizuo.

Its weightiness is overflowing.