11th day of Gamleion, 2nd year of the 93rd Olympiad (403 BCE), Paros, Paros

Today is the start of the local Lenaia festival in honor of Dionysus. It is a celebration of Dionysus’ descent into the underworld and the indestructible nature of life, which survives in the form of his phallus. Until the Anthesteria in two years, the rest of Dionysus body will reside in the tomb at the temple of Delphi, which Apollon uses for a footstool. While Dionysus is in the underworld, he is the source of the oracles given by the Pythia. The carnival atmosphere is supposed to lighten people’s moods in anticipation of the winter months and includes many jokes, riddles, one legged races, one legged jumping contests and songs.

After a little encouragement, I persuaded Caeseria to participate in the procession carrying a basket of grapes and a phallic shaped loaf of bread. The villagers allowed me to play the part of one of the men dressed as a woman and I felt an utter fool but it is all in fun. Later, I participated in some of the contests and, in the one where I jump up and down, one legged, trying to burst an inflated goat skin, I won one of the phallic shaped breads and shared it with my companions.