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Country Guide: Italia
And the Province of Sicilia
by M. Fabius Furius
This guide does not currently review villas, unfinished properties, or domus dwellings. Certain properties strike the author as particularly worth visiting because of their design, special features, or strong informational content. These sites are indicated with a special mark of a golden dolphin.
I. Latium
This fertile region has been the ancient home of the Latin people since the earliest days. It is an area of extensive agriculture. The hills and woods around Mount Albanus also provide a popular summer retreat for city dwellers. Latium is bounded by the Mare Tyrrhenum on the west and by the Appenninus Mountains on the east. The Tibur divides Latium from Etruria to the North. Mount Falernus and the Liris River form the southern boundary with Campania.
Rome itself is the largest city of Latium (see the City Guide: Roma for information). Other important cities are Ostia, Praeneste, Aricia, Tusculum, Arpinum, Lanuvium, Antium, and Tarracina.
The major viae of Latium link Rome to:
- Gabii and Praeneste, southeast on the Via Praenestina (formerly Via Gabina).
- Tusculum, Anagnia, Casinum, Arpinum, and Aquinum, southeast along the Via Latina.
- Labici, south on the Via Labicana.
- Bovillae, Aricia, Velitrae, Lanuvium, Albanum, Tarracina (junction with the Severiana), and Minturnae, south along the Via Appia.
- Lavinium, Antium and Tarracina, on the Via Severiana. Lavinium is also reached directly by the Via Laurentina (junction with the Severiana).
- Ostia, west on the Via Ostiensis.
Cities of Latium
Tusculum is a Latin city founded in ancient days by Alba Longa on the lower slopes of Mount Albanus. The city has long been allied with Rome and received the Roman franchise in 381 BC, the first Latin city so honored. Several prominent Roman families have their roots in Tusculum. In our own day, the town is a pleasant summer refuge from the heat of Rome, and many wealthy Romans own villae in the vicinity. A great deal of Tusculum’s history can be found in the libraries of several patrons with homes in the city.
Tusculum is an easy day’s travel from Rome. From the Via Appia connect to the Via Latina. Take the branch road of the Via Tusculana to Tusculum. An alternative route is the Via Labicana, which approaches Tusculum from the north.
Visitor Information
Local History
Villa Magnoliarum Tusculi, Tusculum -- this villa has a library with local information and history on scrolls. Visit by appointment.
Business Services
Settling In
Dining
The Old Taberna, Tusculum -- this small inn has food and rooms where those without friends can stay in town.
What to See and Do
Museums, Galleries, Historic Houses
Heraklia’s Villa Rustica, Tusculum -- an interesting tour of the grounds here allows visitors to learn some of the typical operations of a Roman country villa.
Fabricius’ Villa Urbana, Tusculum -- a large farm showing the operation of a country villa and statistics on farm output.
Villa Rustica, Tusculum -- this country estate offers seasonal activities for the major feasts of the agricultural year, including the Compitalia and Saturnalia festivals. Open year-round.
Parks and Gardens
Shopping
Flowers
Livia’s Lovely Flower Shop, Tusculum -- sells flowers from across the empire for home decoration. Located in the Forum.
Lucretii Florists, Tusculum -- supplies flowers from garden favorites to exotics for occasions from weddings to festivals. Located in the Acropolis district.
II. Campania
Campania has long been the crossroads for encounters between the Greeks, Etruscans, Samnites, Romans and Latins for many hundred years. The region is remarkable for its productive soil and rich output of crops, oil, and wine. The great volcanic mountain of Mount Vesuvius dominates the central part of Campania and is visible all around the fashionable resorts of the Gulf of Cumae. The Mare Tyrrhenum forms the western shore of Campania. The eastern boundary with Apulia is marked by the Appenninus Mountains. Mount Falernus and the Liris River form the northern boundary with Latium. The Silarus River forms the southern boundary with Lucania.
Campania may be divided into the Hill Country of the interior and the coastal towns of the Krater Coast, or Gulf of Cumae. Capua serves as a major road junction for the Viae Appia, Latina, Campana, and Aquillia. The Via Latina approaches Capua from Rome and Latium to the north, passing through Venafrum and Cales. The Via Aquillia continues southeast from Capua, passing Nola and Nucera Alfaterna. The Via Campana and branches run south from Capua to Cumae and Puteoli.
Cumae, Baiae, Puteoli, Neapolis, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae, and Surrentum ring the Gulf of Cumae on the Via Domitiana. Pompeii stands a short distance inland from Herculaneum and Oplontis. Salernum is further south along the Via Popilia, near Picentia on the coast.
Visitor Information
Top Attractions for the First Time Visitor
Historic Houses of Pompeii
Wine & Olive Estate Tours
Hill Country
Cities of Campania - Interior
Nola is a quiet market town. It provides a convenient waypoint for travelers heading north or south along the Via Popilia. The town was severely damaged during both the Social War and the Spartacan uprising. Nola is best known for its twin temples to the Julian dynasts in its Forum.
What to See and Do
Temples and Shrines
Country Estates
Villa Venafra -- this estate offers a tour of a working olivetum and oil press house and other activities related to this important industry. Located off the Via Latina near Venafrum.
Olive Grove -- this well-tended farm and olive groves in the rolling hills of Campania recall Vergil’s poem Moretum.
Hillside Vineyards -- open for visitors to stroll and picnic among the groves, this estate in the foothills of Mount Falernus produces figs, grapes, and olives in abundance..
Vinea Falerna -- this extensive vineyard on the slope of Mount Falernus produces fine wines, including Falernum and mulsum. Offers a tour and wine purchase on site. Located off the Via Appia, northwest of Capua.
The Krater Coast
Cities of Campania - Coast
The large volcanic mountain of Vesuvius dominates the shoreline of the Gulf of Cumae. Just south of the great mountain is the town of Pompeii. The visitor will find the town conveniently divided into six districts, three each for the eastern and western halves – north, central, and south.
There are a number of villae and lavishly decorated houses of Roman nobles in Pompeii. The Northwest Regio, in particular, is notable for its magnificent homes open to the public. The well-known Triangular Forum is located in the Southwest Regio, and Romans, Greeks, and many others who give Pompeii its cosmopolitan appeal frequent its shops. Not far from the Triangular Forum are gladiator barracks and slave markets.
Baiae, Agri Imperiales, is one of the most fashionable town along the coast. Situated on a slope above the shoreline, the town is surrounded by the villae of wealthy Romans. The waterfront promenade and famous baths attract many visitors. Lake Lucrinus, located just north of the town, is a popular sailing spot for private yachts and small boats throughout the summer months.
Misenum at the western and of the Gulf of Cumae is the party spot of the Krater coast. The volcanic hills of the cape are adorned with luxury villae and private retreats. The town of Misenum has a number of taverns and private clubs for late-night revelers. The fleet headquarters of the Classis Misenensis is also based on this port.
Settling In
Accommodations
Insula Arriana Polliana, Pompeii -- a building with rental housing and, according to local gossip, a somewhat scandalous reputation. Southwest Regio
Peacock Feathers Inn at the Garden of Arcane Delights -- a luxury inn decorated in the manner of the east, and many eastern delicacies are available from its kitchen. Guests may cavort naked among the lavish gardens and statuary of the surrounding park or lounge beside the rippled surface of the Lotus Pond.
Dining
Octavia’s Thermopolium, Pompeii -- for those willing to drink their wine in a tavern, the thermopolium offers a variety of local wine including, of course, Falernian.
Rainbow Serpent Inn, Misenum -- offers comfortable lodging in rooms decorated with the fantastical images of an imaginary land beyond Ethiop and Arabia.
Xena’s Surf and Turf, Misenum -- this themed tavern references an imaginary land beyond the southern seas and its fierce warriors. The drinking rooms here cater to young revelers who gather along the shore for bathing, flirting, and other means of seduction.
Temples and Shrines
Temple of Isis, Pompeii -- a beautifully decorated temple to the Egyptian goddess. The introduction of eastern cults in Pompeii has a long history, and this temple dates to the era of the Elder Cato.
Walking Tours
Northwest Regio Tour, Pompeii -- an in-depth tour led by a colorful host. The tour covers the local features of interest and takes visitors into the great houses of the district for a view of the artistic treasures of Pompeii.
Museums, Galleries, Historic Houses
House of Marcus Lucretius Fronto, Pompeii -- one of the major historic homes of Pompeii open to the visitor. Offers a detailed descriptive tour of a typical atrium-style domus – well worth the time. Northeast Regio.
House of the Tragic Poet, Pompeii -- one of the most famous Pompeii houses noted for its lavish mosaic decorations. A tour may be arranged through the steward of the noble lady Cornellia Cornelius. Northeast Regio.
Casa del Labirinto, Pompeii -- a somewhat unusual house that departs from the conventional architectural plan. Visitors may tour the house, which features elaborate mosaics and paintings depicting the tale of Theseus and the Minotaur of Crete. Northeast Regio.
Villa Argentii, Pompeii -- this domus contains an exhibition of Roman silver from Pompeii and other locations on display for visitors. Northeast Regio.
Villa de Cassius, Pompeii -- a tour for the visitor interested in art, particularly the fresco painting style. Central East Regio.
Villa Julia Felix, Pompeii -- offers a tour of the domus and gardens to visitors interested in the architecture of Pompeii. Located near the amphitheater. Southeast Regio.
House of the Centaur, Pompeii -- sculpture and mosaics in this house recall the ancient legends of the centaurs and the hero Hercules. The tour also highlights the early history of the Samnites in this region. Northwest Regio.
Villa Rustica, near Pompeii -- this estate just outside the town gate raises fine horses of African and Spanish breeds.
Shopping
Scrolls, Parchment, Ink
Pallas’ Bibleion, Pompeii -- this shop maintains a good selection of inks and writing instrumenta, as well as a variety of scrolls by Greek and Roman authors. Southwest Regio.
Food
Mercator Flavii, Baiae -- operates an oyster farm along Lake Lucrinus, a site famous for this mollusk.
Wine
Taberna Falerna, Baiae -- offers wine from the Vinea Falerna estate. Features quality Falernum and mulsum.
Slaves
Mercator Flavii, Pompeii -- operates a market for slaves near the Triangular Forum. Southwest Regio.
Mercator Flavii, Misenum -- open slave market in the town center.
Spectator Sports
Amphitheatrum Pansea, Pompeii -- one of the great public monuments of Campania, the building’s façade of massive arched vaults dominates the southern sector of town. This is the oldest permanent amphitheater built in Italy. An interesting tour is provided by slaves of the Patron Senex Caecilius. Meet at the palaestra next door. Southeast Regio.
Ludus Britannicus and its training grounds, Pompeii -- Among the more exotic establishments in the city, this school specializes in the training of female gladiators for the games! Southwest Regio.
Domus of M. Flaminius Felis, Pompeii -- champions of the arena are always popular celebrities, and this domus is visited even by nobiles expressing good wishes for this undefeated Thraex. Arena lore and memorabilia decorate the atrium and library where fans are welcome.
Entertainment/Night Life
Theater of Pompeii, Pompeii -- a prominent local landmark, this theater is a reminder of the long-felt Greek influence in Campania. Southwest Regio.
Lupanares
House of Negotiable Affections, Pompeii -- offers a pleasurable diversion for those inclined to marry Venus to Mercury. Central East Regio.
Delectatio Punctum, Pompeii -- offers a somewhat incongruous introduction to the town of Pompeii and a guide to the town’s erotic art. Southwest Regio.
Personal Services
Mercator Flavii, Baiae -- this spa offers visitors a relaxing plunge in the warm sulfur springs just north of Lake Lucrinus.
Town Baths, Baiae -- luxurious public baths noted for the graceful porticoes and impressive domed chamber of its architecture.
III. Sicilia
Sicilia is a well-developed province with a long history. It was the Greeks who first conquered the island and civilized the native tribes. After the great war between the Spartans and Athenians, Sicilia fell under the influence of the tyrants of Syracusa and the Carthaginians. The island finally fell to Rome at the end of the first war with Carthage. The Senate incorporated Sicilia, outside the territory of Syracusa, as the first overseas province of Rome after the war. Syracusa was added after the death of Hiero II fifty years later and its defeat during the second war with Carthage. Sicilia is a rich province and a source of agricultural products, particularly grain and wine.
The principal cities of Sicilia are Syracusa, Catana, and Tauromenium along the eastern coast; Messana and Panormus along the northern coast; Segesta, Eryx, and Lilybaem at the northwest tip; Agrigentum on the southern coast; and Centuripae and Philosophiana in the interior.
Cities of Sicilia
The chief city of the island is Syracusa. The original settlement of Syracusa was on the Island of Ortygia, and this remains the chief district of the city. Syracusa was founded by the Corinthians and rose to great prominence under the rule of the tyrants. Rome conquered the last of these rulers during the second war against Carthage. Syracusa is the capital of the Roman province and home to one of the quaestors.
Messana is located at the northeast point of the island. The main settlement is at Zancle Harbor. Originally built up by the Greeks, the city later became the home of the Mamertini. The praefect’s office here has a record of the role of this town in beginning the great conflict between Rome and Carthage. Messana was also the base for the rebel Sextus Pompeius until his defeat by the forces of the then Triumvir Octavian.
Lilybaeum and the ruins on the Island of Motya are located at the western end of the island. The city archives here remind the visitor of the prominent role this town played during the conflicts with Carthage. Lilybaem was first a principal port of the Carthaginians. It fell to Rome at the end of the first war with Carthage after a siege of nine years. Lilybaem is the headquarters of one of the Roman quaestors on the island, and it was from here that the evil Verres stole many works of art.
Visitor Information
Local History
Ortygia’s archives, Syracusa -- contains records of the early history of the island’s settlement.
Conquest of Syracusa, Syracusa -- a memorial monograph records the victory of the Roman legions under Appius Claudius Pulcher and Marcus Claudius Marcellus. Located in the archives library.
Business Services
Settling In
Dining
Caesar’s Palate, Messana -- a restaurant catering to the adventurous and patient diner.
What to See and Do
Shopping
Wine
Mercator Flavii, Syracusa -- wine merchants dealing in the varietal vintages of Sicilia.
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